Dave Frank for the MBT
St. Patrick’s Day is just around the corner, and as you’re making plans, you’ll probably want to eat some traditional Irish food.
In the United States, the holiday often means green beer and corned beef and cabbage. In Ireland, however, the menu looks a bit different — more rustic, more seasonal and rooted in tradition.
Traditional Irish cooking centers on lamb or goat, root vegetables and soda bread. To honor that tradition, this week’s recipe features a version of Irish stew made with local lamb and Guinness stout.
As with many heritage dishes, there are numerous “traditional” recipes, and strong opinions about which is correct. Historical versions of Irish stew were simple — sometimes just goat, onions and water cooked in a cauldron over a fire. Potatoes did not arrive in Ireland until the 1600s, so earlier stews relied on turnips, parsnips, rutabagas, carrots and other stored root vegetables, depending on the region and season.
By spring, lamb was plentiful, making it a natural choice for St. Patrick’s Day. And, being Ireland, a bit of stout often found its way into the pot. Soda bread — made without yeast — was commonly served alongside, ideal for soaking up the rich broth.
This recipe requires a bit of time, but the result is well worth the effort.
Irish Stew Ingredients
½ pound thick-cut smoked bacon
8 lamb chops (about 1 pound of meat), boned and cut into ½-inch cubes
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
2 parsnips, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
3 cups Yukon gold potatoes, cubed
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon beef base (such as Better Than Bouillon)
2 bottles Guinness stout
4 cups water
½ cup flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
½ stick Irish butter
Instructions
Remove bones and excess fat from the lamb chops, reserving the scraps. Cut the meat into ½-inch cubes and set aside.
In a large stock pot, cook the bacon over low heat to render the fat without burning it. Remove the bacon and chop into small pieces.
Brown the lamb bones and fat scraps in the bacon drippings, rendering the remaining fat and turning to brown all sides.
Transfer the bones and scraps to a large saucepan with 4 cups of water, one bottle of Guinness and the beef base. Bring to a low boil. Add vegetable trimmings from the carrots, celery, parsnips and onion to build flavor. Simmer for about 10 minutes, then reduce to low heat. (A bay leaf may be added if available.)
Place the seasoned flour in a shallow dish. Dredge the lamb cubes, coating completely. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding, brown the meat on all sides in the hot fat. Remove and set aside.
Stir the remaining flour into the hot oil to form a roux, stirring constantly. Once incorporated, add the second bottle of Guinness and return the browned lamb to the pot.
Strain the prepared stock and add it to the stew.
In a large sauté pan, melt the butter. Add the garlic and onion and cook until lightly browned. Add the remaining vegetables, reserving the potatoes. Sauté until slightly caramelized, then transfer to the stew pot along with the potatoes.
Bring the stew to a boil, then add salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce. Reduce to a low simmer and stir in the chopped bacon.
Simmer for several hours, or transfer to a slow cooker on low heat. The stew improves in flavor the next day, making it an excellent make-ahead dish.
Soda Bread Ingredients
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup Irish butter, softened
1½ cups buttermilk
Instructions
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking soda and salt. Add softened butter and buttermilk, mixing until a dough forms. Mix by hand to ensure no dry spots remain.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently. Do not overwork the dough, as this will result in a tough loaf.
Shape into a dome and place on parchment paper on a sheet pan. Bake 30 to 45 minutes, checking periodically. Insert a toothpick into the center; when it comes out clean, the bread is done. For a richer crust, brush the top with a mixture of melted butter and buttermilk during baking.
Allow to cool before slicing.
Serve the stew with thick slices of soda bread, buttered generously, and enjoy with a pint of Guinness.
Sláinte.
Until next time.
Dave Frank is a Montrose native, U.S. Air Force veteran and retired chef who spent 25 years in the culinary world, earning the title of chef de cuisine. He is the current mayor of Montrose.
